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Good preventative maintenance lengthens the intervals between major renovation
operations such as re-coating and refinishing. The following solutions apply
only to polyurethane finishes. Do not attempt on waxed floor finishes.
Simple suggestions to keep your floors beautiful and making their care easier.
Mats and rugs:
Dirt, grit and sand act like sandpaper to scratch, dent and dull hardwood
floors. Use dirt-trapping, walk off mats at all exterior doors to help prevent
dirt, grit and sand from getting inside the building. Throw rugs or small
sections of carpet just inside the entrance are also recommended. Dirt and
Grit are any flooring's worst enemy and that includes carpets and vinyl's
as well as Hardwoods. Keep door mats clean. In kitchens, use area rugs at
high spill locations and at work stations-stove, sink, refrigerator. Cotton
is generally the best fabric since it is easily washed. Mats with a smooth
backing, i.e. rubber or vinyl may trap water beneath. To avoid uneven appearance,
move area rugs occasionally and drape or shade large windows.
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Furniture:
Put fabric glides on the legs of your furniture; they allow furniture to be
moved easy without scuffing the floor. Lift, don't drag. Clean the glides
regularly since grit can become embedded in them . Some furniture may require
barrel type roller casters as ball type casters may cause damage. Grey, non-marking
rubber casters are the best. Avoid casters made of hard materials like metals
or hard plastics.
Vacuuming, sweeping or mopping
Sweep, vacuum or dust mop at least weekly; a brush attachment works beautifully.
Do not use a household dust treatment as this may cause your floor to become
slick, dull the finish, or interfere with recoating. Canister vacuums with
special bare floor attachments are the surest way to get rid of all the dirt
and dust. Never use wax products like Murphy's Oil Soap, Endust, Pledge
etc... . If mopping, use a dust mop with a 12-to-18-inch cotton head. Check
with the flooring manufacturer if a mop treatment is to be used. Water and
other standing liquids can damage a floor's finish. Standing water can warp
a finished floor. Starting at the edge and working toward the center, wipe
up spills, pet accidents and other mishaps when they happen.
Spills:
Wipe up food and other spills immediately with a dry cloth or paper towel.
A damp (not wet) cloth may be used on a well-sealed wood floor to wipe up
food spills or mud. Wipe dry with cloth or paper towel. Clean when necessary
with a solvent-based liquid wax for wood. Follow directions on container.
High Heels:
Keep heels on shoes in good repair, especially high heels. Heels that have
their protective cap missing or worn away exposing the steel support rod will
dent any floor surface, even concrete.
Moving furniture:
Prevent scratches when moving furniture by putting heavy socks over the legs.
Sunlight:
Sunlight can cause discoloration over time. Close curtains and blinds or add
sheer drapes to protect a hardwood floor from intense UV rays.
Squeaky Hardwood Floors:
To silence a squeak, try applying liquid wax, powdered soap, talcum powder
or powdered graphite between floor boards that are rubbing together. If that
doesn't do the job, drive two-inch finishing nails through pilot holes near
both edges of the board, then hide the hole with matching color putty or wax.
How to clean polyurethane finishes:
Alcoholic beverage stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened in a solution of white vinegar and warm water in
equal proportions, then rub it with a dry cloth.
Blood stains:
Mop or sponge with clear, cold water. If the stain remains, mop or sponge
it with a solution of ammonia and cold water.
Candy stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened in detergent and warm water. For abrasive action,
use steel wool instead of a cloth except on "no wax", or hard-surface
floors. On them use powdered detergent and a plastic scrubbing pad dampened
with warm water.
Crayon marks:
Crayon marks on the floor may be removed by rubbing them with a damp cloth
containing toothpaste. Toothpaste will not work well on porous surfaces.
Dark spots
Dark spots on wood floors are often the result of alkaline exposure, which
were allowed to dry on the floor. To get rid of these spots: remove solvent
based wax with mineral spirits; this is a flammable solvent so be very careful;
have adequate ventilation, and be sure there is no spark or flame in the area.
Apply white vinegar to spots and leave it there for three of four minutes;
and wipe dry with a clean cloth. Repeat this procedure, if necessary. If several
applications of vinegar do not remove the spot, you might try a four percent
oxalic acid solution. When using oxalic acid, read the label and observe all
cautions.
Scratches and small worn areas
These can often be concealed by applying a small amount of wax with very fine
steel wool to the floor. Apply the wax in the direction of the wood grain
wherever possible and rub it in gently until the color blends with the floor.
Wipe off any excess, then polish the area with a clean, dry cloth. Wax, alone,
will work well for light to medium-colored floors.
Dye stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened in a solution of one part chlorine bleach and two
parts water. Under no circumstances combine ammonia with chlorine bleach,
since them may lead to the formation of a harmful gas. The water can hurt
wood floors, do not let it soak.
Grease:
Ice Cube or Cold Water. If you spill grease on a wood floor, immediately place
an ice cube or very cold water on the spot. The grease will harden and can
then be scraped off with a knife. Then iron a piece of cloth over the grease
spot.
Fresh Fruit Stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened with a solution of detergent and warm water. If
this is not effective and your floor is resilient tile, wood, or cork, rub
the stain with a cloth dampened in a solution of one tablespoon of oxalic
acid (available at drugstores and hardware stores) and one pint of water.
Ink Stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened in warm water and detergent. If the floor is not
hard-surfaced, use a commercial ink remover and follow the instructions on
the package.
Iodine Stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened in a solution of household ammonia and water. If
this is not effective, saturate the cloth in the solution and place it over
the stain until the stain is removed.
Lipstick Stains:
Rub with a cloth dampened in detergent and warm water. If you do not get results,
rub with steel wool dipped in water and detergent. If the floor is hard- surfaced,
"no wax", or embossed vinyl asbestos, use a plastic scouring pad
instead of steel wool.
Nail Polish Stains:
On resilient flooring, rub with a cloth dampened in a concentrated detergent
solution, or use scouring powder, water, and a plastic mesh pad. On wood and
cork, rub gently with steel wool. After removing a stain, rinse the area thoroughly,
dry completely, and, if floor finish has been removed in that area, recoat
with appropriate finish or wax.
Oil Stains:
Remove as much as possible with newspaper, paper towels, or a plastic spatula.
On resilient tile, rub with a cloth dampened in detergent and warm water,
or if that does not work, use a concentrated commercial household cleaner,
and then rinse well. On wood and cork, put a cloth saturated with dry cleaning
fluid on the stain for five minutes. Then wipe the area dry and wash with
detergent and water. On stone, use a formulated solvent with a soft, clean
cloth.
Paint or Varnish:
On resilient tile, rub with a cloth or plastic mesh pad dipped in warm water
and detergent. On wood and cork, rub lightly with a cloth dampened in a formulated
paint remover following manufacturer's directions so as not to damage the
permanent surface finish. On a hard-surfaced floor, scrub with a concentrated
solution of detergent and water.
Rubber Heel Marks:
A pencil eraser may remove them. If not, heel marks and other stubborn spots
may be removed by rubbing gently with 000 fine steel wool and the solvent-based
wax used on the floor.
Rust Stains:
Use a commercial rust remover made for your type of floor such as Wink or
Zud.
Shoe Polish Stains:
On resilient flooring, rub with a cloth dampened in a concentrated detergent
solution, or use scouring powder, water, and a plastic mesh pad. On wood and
cork, rub gently with steel wool. After removing a stain, rinse the area thoroughly,
dry completely, and, if floor finish has been removed in that area, recoat
with appropriate finish or wax.
Tar:
To remove tar, freeze it to brittleness with ice cubes and then scrape it
off with a plastic spatula. To remove the tar stain, wipe with a cloth dampened
with either a dry cleaning solvent or a formulated safety solvent. Scrape
up excess tar with the side of a dull knife. Rub again with your fingernail,
a ice cream pop stick, or anything that won't scratch the floor. Finally,
wipe up the tar with a dry cloth.
Urine Stains:
Rub with a hot, damp cloth and scouring powder. For old stubborn stains, use
a 10 to 1 dilution of liquid bleach. Rinse well with clean water. Bleach reaching
the actual wood surface will lighten/discolor the floor.
Contributed in part by www.doityourself.com . Please
visit their site for excellent advice on all types of home care.
Come visit our showroom. We can teach other
great floor caring techniques in person.
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